The Origin
The Chanderi textile originates in the ancient town of Chanderi, located in the Ashok Nagar district of Madhya Pradesh, India. This town is not only a weaving center but a place rich in historical monuments, including ancient forts, palaces, and cenotaphs. The weaving tradition itself is exceptionally old, dating back over a thousand years. It is said that this fabric was first introduced by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupala. In the 11th century, trade connections with South Gujarat, Malwa, Mewar and central India increased its importance.
During the 17th century, references to woven Chanderi fabric can be found in Masir-i-Alamgiri, which states that Aurangzeb ordered the use of a cloth embroidered with gold and silver for making khilat. The craft truly flourished under royal patronage, becoming a favorite fabric among the nobility during the Mughal era and the rule of the Marathas in the 17th century, where the sheer, lightweight textile was considered a symbol of royalty.
The characteristic beauty of the Chanderi fabric comes from its distinctive composition, giving it a subtle shimmering texture often described as 'woven air' due to its incredible fineness and transparency. Initially, the fabric was handwoven using handspun cotton yarn as fine as muslin. The craft evolved in the 1930s with the introduction of silk, often blended with cotton, which imparted the fabric's famous luster and delicate feel. The most special element is the Zari, a metallic thread traditionally made of gold or silver, which is used for the elegant borders and intricate motifs. This combination of fine cotton, luxurious silk, and lustrous Zari ensures the fabric is exceptionally light, breathable, and radiant.
WEAVING TECHNIQUE
The Chanderi saree is of three major types: Chanderi cotton, Chanderi silk, and Chanderi silk-cotton (which is the most common). The fabric is made on traditional pit looms or frame looms. The saree is woven with the warp (tana), a stretched-out set of threads, through which the weft (bana) is passed in a regular motion.
The sarees are renowned for their delicate and intricate designs, known as 'butis' or motifs, which are woven directly into the fabric using the skilled extra weft technique, often in Zari thread. These common motifs draw inspiration from nature and geometry, including patterns like the 'Asharfi' (gold coin) and the 'Keri' (mango or paisley). The finished saree is characterized by its heavy, detailed Zari border, which is woven simultaneously with the main body, requiring great precision and skill and preserving the careful, hand-done tradition of the Chanderi craft.
PRESERVATION OF CRAFT AND KAPITTHA’S COMMITMENT
Chanderi sarees received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2005, protecting their unique identity. At House of Kapittha, we are passionate about preserving the timeless craft of Chanderi. We achieve this by blending these traditional techniques with modern design to deliver the highest quality. Having worked closely with the master weavers of this GI-tagged region for over a year, we deeply understand the artistry involved. Our sarees are always sourced directly, ensuring authenticity and exceptional quality.